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Street Tacos And Grill Sizzles With Sentiment In Boyle Heights

Street Tacos and Grill - Foodzooka Splat Feature

Occupying a narrow, white brick storefront in Boyle Heights, Street Tacos and Grill is a spot to look out for, just down the street from the Mariachi Plaza metro station. The grill takes center stage at this cozy taqueria, where any seat in the house gives you a good view of the cooking action behind the counter. The sizzling sounds and scents lure you in, much like stumbling upon an outdoor street food vendor.

“People will come up to the counter, and they’ll watch the tacos being made the whole time that they’re waiting for their food. That’s part of the experience,” said Arturo Aguilar, who opened the Tijuana-style taco joint with his brother Leo just over a year ago in their hometown. “We’re trying to merge the street taco experience with a restaurant feel.”

Street Tacos and Grill - Handmade tortillas (Foodzooka)
Street Tacos and Grill – Handmade tortillas (Foodzooka)

Street Tacos and Grill exudes a youthful modern attitude, yet doesn’t interfere with tradition when it comes to food. Edgy local art paintings hang on exposed brick walls, and hip-hop pulses through the speakers. But the food is a deep dive into the past, recreating the tacos the Aguilar brothers enjoyed as kids and on trips to visit family in Tijuana.

“Us being Mexican Americans, we love the tacos our parents used to make. So now we want to continue that,” Arturo said.

Their parents used to cater parties on the weekends for extra income, allowing Arturo and Leo to pitch in and learn their cooking styles firsthand. When their parents retired, the brothers were well prepared to take over the catering gigs. They successfully booked every weekend for several years before deciding to tackle it as a full-time business and set up Street Tacos and Grill. As Arturo remembers, “I told my brother if we’re going to do it, we’re going to go all the way.”

Street Tacos and Grill - Chicharron Al Pastor Shrimp Tacos (Foodzooka)
Street Tacos and Grill – Chicharron Al Pastor Shrimp Tacos (Foodzooka)

The restaurant’s Tijuana-style dishes feature mounds of marinated diced meats that are generously coated with avocado sauce (aguacate salsa), garnished with cilantro, and served on handmade corn tortillas. While the overhead menu board lists simplistic descriptions of each dish, a taste of any item reveals the complexity underlying its preparation.

A small team devotes energy behind the scenes to make nearly everything from scratch, with kitchen and prep duties shared between the Aguilars and their staff cook, Blanca de la Cruz. Arturo and Leo apply their mother’s marinade recipes to each of the meats, infusing distinctive flavors into the asada, carnitas, chicken, al pastor, barbacoa, and shrimp. Leo makes most of the salsas himself, roasting the tomatoes and tomatillos in-house.

Street Tacos and Grill - Chicken Carne Asada Mulitas (Foodzooka)
Street Tacos and Grill – Chicken Carne Asada Mulitas (Foodzooka)

To make the tortillas, the Aguilars recruited Elia Martinez, a native of Oaxaca who extends her expertise to several restaurants in Boyle Heights. Elia works her alchemy to mix the masa with the right consistency to create soft yet hardy tortillas that bring out the flavor of the corn.

“People love the handmade tortillas. It just sets us apart from other taco spots,” Arturo beamed.

The mulitas give you a double dose of those fragrant handmade tortillas. Mulitas are a classic Tijuana street food that look like a taco sandwich. Your choice of meat is layered with onions, cilantro, avocado sauce, and Oaxacan cheese, all packed between two thick tortillas and slapped onto the grill. Sopes are another variation of the taco in which the masa takes a thicker, puck-shaped form with the ingredients piled on top.

Street Tacos and Grill - Sopes (Foodzooka)
Street Tacos and Grill – Sopes (Foodzooka)

Another specialty of the house is the chicharron taco, which soaks fried pork rinds in a spicy salsa verde to achieve a soft, meaty chew. The tangy lassos of pickled red onion on top add a contrasting splash of color, perhaps to distract you from the heat of the salsa.

“Our chicharrones in salsa verde are super, super spicy. We warn everybody who orders it,” said Arturo. “There are some people who come just for the super spicy chicharrones.”

Street Tacos and Grill - Secret menu cheese taco (Foodzooka)
Street Tacos and Grill – Secret menu cheese taco (Foodzooka)

Oaxacan cheese is a frequent ingredient for Street Tacos and Grill, imparting authentic Mexican flavor and texture, whether crumbled into savory bits or melted to stretch in gooey strings. It also takes shape as a unique option on the secret menu: a layer is melted and grilled to a crisp to form a cheesy shell for your choice of taco, sans tortilla.

The same marinated meats and housemade salsas that make the tacos are also wrapped in the burritos, or can be served in a bowl with rice. The meat choices for tortas include pork, chicken, or beef, sandwiched in locally made buns. And a mix of grilled vegetables is available as a vegetarian alternative for any dish.

Street Tacos and Grill - Chicken Torta (Foodzooka)
Street Tacos and Grill – Chicken Torta (Foodzooka)

Off to the side on the menu is an extra item that’s often less familiar to younger generations who visit Street Tacos and Grill. Carne en su jugo is a version of beef stew that’s prepared by Blanca. She simmers thin cuts of flank steak in tomatillos and the beef’s own broth, mixing in Mexican onions, jalapenos, beans, and chopped bacon. Served with a side of tortillas, it’s a comforting, hearty dish that sells best in the winter but is surprisingly appealing in the summer to those who grew up with it.

“It doesn’t make sense to me, but people like mom and my dad, they like to eat it when it’s hot outside. They say they’re fighting fire with fire,” Arturo explained.

Street Tacos and Grill (courtesy) - Carne en su jugo
Street Tacos and Grill (courtesy) – Carne en su jugo

For more refreshing choices, check out the housemade beverages. The selection of bebidas includes horchata, jamaica, and kale, which is a healthy mix of kale, pineapple, cucumber, lemon, and chia seeds.

The handmade authenticity and traditional Mexican flavors at Street Tacos and Grill have not gone unnoticed by local food enthusiasts. Jose Vazquez, a Boyle Heights native who co-owns East Side Eats LA catering, appreciates that the Aguilars have upheld the old school tastes of street food. “What stood out to me the most is how simple but yet absolutely full of flavor their food is, from their aguas to their tacos,” Jose commented. “They’re just insanely good.”

Street Tacos and Grill - Owners Arturo and Leo Aguilar (Foodzooka)
Street Tacos and Grill – Owners Arturo and Leo Aguilar (Foodzooka)

Having grown up in East Los Angeles, Arturo and Leo want to keep Street Tacos and Grill ingrained in the community, not only by meeting local tastes but by showcasing local talent. Inside, the restaurant walls feature Eastside Chicano art on a rotating basis, currently displaying paintings from Lincoln Heights artist Fernando Barragan. Outside, the Aguilars commissioned LA graffiti artist KEO to paint a tall, narrow mural along the side of the restaurant: an iconic portrait of the Mexican comedic film legend Cantinflas, leaning against a street sign pole with a taco in hand (instead of a cigarette). For Arturo and Leo, it evokes the nostalgia of watching movies with their father, while also recognizing the historic artistry and culture of the Boyle Heights neighborhood, known for its vibrant Chicano murals since the 1970s.

Street Tacos and Grill - Boyle Heights (Foodzooka)
Street Tacos and Grill – Boyle Heights (Foodzooka)

“The older generation of my mom and my dad concentrated on the food, they concentrated on being practical and efficient. But now, it’s more than that. It’s the atmosphere,” Arturo said. “When people come in and see the art, they want to hang out and chill.”

For restaurant hours and info, click the Foodzooka profile below to find the Street Tacos and Grill website and follow them on social media.

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At Rustic Kitchen, Comfort Foods Make A Comeback

Rustic Kitchen - Foodzooka Splat Feature

A family-owned gourmet restaurant within walking distance is a rare find in Los Angeles. So when Rustic Kitchen settled into Mar Vista’s residential Hilltop area in 2016, the neighborhood welcomed the cozy cafe and the perks of its included wine bar and market shop.

Rustic Kitchen serves what owners Noelle and John Fanaris call “comfort Americana” cuisine, with a multi-page menu that’s got you covered all day, from breakfast eggs to dinner drinks. While chef Noelle oversees the food, John, a lifelong wine connoisseur, is in charge of the bar.

“I’ve always felt that very few places that call themselves a wine bar actually deliver,” he said, which is why Rustic Kitchen offers 65 bottles by the glass.

On the food menu, you’ll find many childhood favorites upgraded with a homey gourmet flourish. “I cook very simply. I don’t like to overcomplicate recipes,” said Noelle. “I don’t like to put too many ingredients in things.”

Rustic Kitchen - Cafe counter and wine bar (Foodzooka)
Rustic Kitchen – Cafe counter and wine bar (Foodzooka)

The specialty of the house is the mac & cheese, the dish that started Noelle’s professional food career. Before running Rustic Kitchen, Noelle was a caterer who turned her macaroni and cheese recipe into a packaged product that made it to the frozen food shelves of 140 stores, including Whole Foods, Gelson’s, and Bristol Farms.

“We wanted to make something decent that you could get in the freezer section. Because anything you get in the freezer section looks really good on the picture, and it never tastes anything like that,” she said.

Noelle describes Rustic Kitchen’s mac & cheese as a drier variation that isn’t wallowing in a puddle of sauce. It’s baked twice to crispen the top while retaining a tender center. The taste is heightened with a hardy cheese foursome: gruyere, sharp cheddar, parmesan, and fontina.

“I think the combination of cheeses is what makes the difference,” she said. Another embellished version of the dish adds jalapeno and bacon, or you can cap your mac & cheese with a layer of lobster for an extra $8.

Rustic Kitchen - Four Cheese Mac & Cheese (Foodzooka)
Rustic Kitchen – Four Cheese Mac & Cheese (Foodzooka)

Along the same line of nostalgic comfort foods, chicken pot pie was another classic that Noelle wanted to revive. Instead of a traditionally heavy dairy sauce, the cream filling is thinned with chicken and vegetable broth. Influenced by her Italian roots, she also adds a taste of fennel.

On the lighter side of the menu are other personal touches. The Green Goddess salad is drizzled with a homemade green dressing inspired by the Seven Seas bottled version made popular in the ’70s. The butter lettuce, green apple slices, and pistachios complete the color theme with flavorful flair.

“We want people to walk away knowing it was very fresh with good quality ingredients,” said John.

Rustic Kitchen - Green Goddess Salad (Foodzooka)
Rustic Kitchen – Green Goddess Salad (Foodzooka)

Rustic Kitchen is also known for its sliders, of which the fried green tomato sliders are a standout for vegans and vegetarians. The tomatoes are dipped in soy milk and veganaise before hitting the frying pan.

Among the meatier options, slow-cooked short ribs make it onto the breakfast, lunch and dinner menus in various forms: in panini sandwiches, on sliders, or served over blue cheese polenta. The restaurant makes at least 10 pounds a day to keep up with demand.

Rustic Kitchen - Short Rib Sliders (Foodzooka)
Rustic Kitchen – Short Rib Sliders (Foodzooka)

The couple’s son, Jordan, also cooks for Rustic Kitchen, leaning toward multicultural flavors and complex recipes. “It’s a good combination because we have a really diverse menu,” Noelle said.  Also be on the lookout for seasonal specials, like the Corned Beef Rueben for Saint Patrick’s Day and the recent Shrimp Po’ Boy and Shrimp & Grits for Mardi Gras.

At the counter, a display case features a selection of pastries and desserts from nearby bakeries, including Rockenwagner Bakery, Hotcakes Bakes, and Jackie’s Family Bakery.

The back walls of the restaurant form a compact retail market lined with shelves of wine bottles, cheese and crackers, snacks, condiments, and even pints of ice cream. Locally made items in the shop include coffee from local roaster Groundwork, Country Archer Jerky, Laguna Salt, Heidi’s Salsa, and Cake Bams, which are desserty rice cakes covered with frosting.

“I really love supporting local businesses, so we have lots of products and drinks that are local,” John said.

Rustic Kitchen - Market retail goods (Foodzooka)
Rustic Kitchen – Market retail goods (Foodzooka)

The Fanarises have in turn felt support from the local community, particularly after one Sunday morning last May, when black smoke came through the vents, forcing a brunch crowd to evacuate the restaurant. Rustic Kitchen is one of six tenants at the end of a strip of businesses that share a common attic where the fire began. Nearly 120 firefighters arrived to extinguish the flames.

“We were standing on the street, hoping and praying that the place wouldn’t burn down to the ground,” John remembered.

Rustic Kitchen was spared from the flames, but not from the smoke and the deluge of water needed to put out the fire. In such cases, it can take more than a year to recover, if ever. With the help of insurance coverage, John and Noelle rebuilt the restaurant to look exactly the same and resumed business four months later in September.

After a few months of getting the word out that they reopened, Rustic Kitchen’s dining area, outdoor patio and bar are bustling again with regulars and new customers, who also come for the monthly wine tasting events.

“Now I feel like we’ve finally turned a corner,” John said.

Rustic Kitchen - Mar Vista (Foodzooka)
Rustic Kitchen – Mar Vista (Foodzooka)

For restaurant hours and more information, click the Foodzooka profile below to find the Rustic Kitchen website and follow them on social media.

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Upper West Points Cuisines In New Directions

Upper West - Foodzooka Splat Feature

How often do you get to indulge in tuna tacos and a short rib sandwich on your lunch break? Well, now you have an excuse to do just that. This hearty surf and turf assembly is just one of the combinations you can choose from the dineLA lunch menu at Upper West in Santa Monica.

On this 10th anniversary of dineLA, Upper West and more than 300 restaurants will be offering specially priced prix fixe menus for lunch and dinner from Jan. 12-26. Now in its eighth year of participation, Upper West’s focus for this two-week event is to welcome new guests to a distinctive and diverse food experience. 

Upper West is known for their unconventional fish tacos: ahi tuna mixed in an orange-chipotle vinaigrette and jicama-cucumber salsa, sprinkled with rice cracker beads, and served on crisp tortilla shells made from plantains. If you’re trying to pinpoint the cuisine to which these tacos belong, don’t bother. Upper West Executive Chef Nick Shipp doesn’t even know.

Upper West (courtesy) - Ahi Tuna Crispy Plantain Tacos
Upper West (courtesy) – Ahi Tuna Crispy Plantain Tacos

“People always want to know what our cuisine is,” said Shipp. “To be honest, I don’t have a clue.” Nonetheless, Shipp, who is also a co-owner of Upper West, is passionate about bringing a spectrum of cultures and flavors to the restaurant.

Shipp first embraced whimsical styles of cooking in Fort Worth, Texas while working with fellow chef Clark McDaniel, who Shipp calls his “Chef Yoda.” At the bygone restaurant, Angeluna, they challenged Texan palates with eyebrow-raising combinations, such as Chinese Spaghetti, rib-eye steak with gorgonzola napa cabbage slaw, and buttermilk ice cream with black pepper. 

Though Shipp came to Los Angeles to pursue a path in music as a drummer, he soon realized he missed the thrill of a kitchen. After honing his skills with Wolfgang Puck’s catering service, California seemed a natural fit for him to expand upon his eclectic culinary beginnings.

“Here, you can eat Japanese, Ethiopian, and Italian all in one day,” he said. “So we wanted to turn that experience into a restaurant with some Americana thrown in.”

On the dineLA dinner menu, the Southern staple of pork chops and applesauce gets an Upper West makeover. The tenderloin—sourced from Devil’s Gulch Ranch in Northern California—is coffee crusted and charbroiled, topped with a jalapeno spiced applesauce, then served with goat cheese mashed potatoes in the style of a French puree.

Upper West (courtesy) - Coffee Crusted Pork Tenderloin
Upper West (courtesy) – Coffee Crusted Pork Tenderloin

The Upper West dineLA menus are designed to showcase the essence of their regular menus and please many different appetites, Shipp said. He assures the portions are big and the staff is prepared to hand out to-go boxes.  “The main thing is not to skimp on size,” he said.

But leave room for dessert! Shipp refers to his brioche bread pudding as “the big beast” for its grand size, which commands shareability. It’s on the dineLA dinner menu along with another weighty dessert: a carrot cake sandwich with cream cheese ice cream.   

Upper West (courtesy) - Brioche Bread Pudding
Upper West (courtesy) – Brioche Bread Pudding

Customers who come for dineLA often come back, which is why Upper West works hard to make a great first impression, Shipp said. A return trip to Upper West would give you a chance to try several other renowned dishes that aren’t on the dineLA menus, such as the veggie burger.

“It was an accident, really,” Shipp said, on conceiving the burger. As a Texas native, vegetarian cuisine was foreign to him, he said. So he experimented with veggies, pulverizing them until they formed a substantial paste that was close to the consistency of ground beef. He cooks this innovated patty in vegetable broth and wine to intensify the flavors.

Shipp also highly recommends trying the mussels from their regular dinner menu. He buys them fresh from Santa Barbara through the Dock-to-Dish sustainable fishery program and cooks them in a garlic-saffron broth with chorizo sarta and a cilantro garnish, accompanied by buttered ciabatta.

Upper West (courtesy) - Mussels with Garlic Saffron Broth
Upper West (courtesy) – Mussels with Garlic Saffron Broth

The restaurant’s name is a reference to Manhattan’s Upper West Side, a tree-lined area of New York City known for its cafes, restaurants, and bars. The restaurant adopts the look of a spacious New York loft with the rustic industrial elements of wood, metal, and high ceilings. 

Upper West was the first restaurant of its kind to open in the neighborhood on the border of Santa Monica. Shortly after its success, more restaurants settled in on this patch of Pico Blvd., and the area grew more inviting as the city invested in beautifying the sidewalks and planting trees. Located adjacent to the 10 Freeway exit ramp, the restaurant is easy to reach for regulars coming from Downtown LA, Pasadena, and Calabasas.

Now that Upper West is a Santa Monica institution, Shipp says the name has taken on a new meaning: a place that’s fun, sleek, and full of atmosphere. Simply stated, he says, “It’s a state of mind.” 

Upper West (courtesy) - West LA
Upper West (courtesy) – West LA

 

 

 

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Go Out On The Edge For Cheeseburger Week At Plate 38

Plate 38 (courtesy) - Foodzooka Splat Feature

With Pasadena fired up for its annual Cheeseburger Week, Jan. 7-12, diners are hankering for specially crafted burgers across the city.

While visitors converge to partake in the food scene of Old Town, locals in the know venture farther out to spots like Plate 38, which is as far east as a restaurant can be and still technically reside in Pasadena.

“We’re in a world of our own,” says Robert Humphreys, owner and chef of Plate 38.

Plate 38 - Classic Burger (Leslie Rodriguez Photography)
Plate 38 – Classic Burger (Leslie Rodriguez Photography)

The neighborhood of East Pasadena has yet to be recognized as a culinary destination. But for the past eight years, Plate 38 has enjoyed true gastropub credibility as a place to watch sports and sample exotic dishes such as venison, braised rabbit, and escargot.

Changing the menu daily and using locally grown ingredients certainly brought intrigue, but it wasn’t enough to bring in the customers. Humphreys said the catalyst was the decision to sell oysters during happy hour for $1.50 each. The oysters are brought in fresh every day, and due to their popularity, each customer is limited to 12 per night.

Plate 38 - $1.50 Oysters (Leslie Rodriguez Photography)
Plate 38 – $1.50 Oysters (Leslie Rodriguez Photography)

“We make no money on them,” said Humphreys, adding that those losses are worth it because they bring in the crowds. The success of the oysters and Plate 38’s extended happy hours fuel Humphreys’ belief that East Pasadena has eager diners nearby, or people are willing to drive the distance for a bargain. Happy hours run 3-11pm on Mondays and twice a day the rest of the week: 3-6 pm and 9-11 pm.

The steady stream of customers has given Humphreys confidence to try more things that loyal customers and newcomers alike would appreciate, such as pumpkin cheesecake, pasta made from scratch, a Bastille Day celebration menu, and cocktails based on the HBO series Game of Thrones.

“We like to do certain things that are off the beaten path,” Humphreys said. 

Plate 38 (courtesy) - Roasted New Zealand Venison Rack
Plate 38 (courtesy) – Roasted New Zealand Venison Rack

For the occasion of Cheeseburger Week, Plate 38 is plating four varieties: the Classic Burger with cheddar, the Barbeque Burger with blue cheese crumbles, the Smoked Mozzarella Burger, and the Truffle Mushroom Burger with truffle cheese.

Cheeseburger Week gives diners a chance to vote on their favorites. Plate 38 is entering three categories: favorite bar burger, favorite gourmet burger, and favorite cocktail with (or before) a burger. 

The secret to creating an exceptional burger is to not mask the flavors with a bunch of ingredients, but let the core components speak for themselves, said Humphreys. 

Plate 38 grinds its own meat for the patties, which are grilled and served with a pinkish center for a juicier burger. “I trust the quality of our meat,” he said. 

Plate 38 - Mozzarella Burger (Leslie Rodriguez Photography)
Plate 38 – Mozzarella Burger (Leslie Rodriguez Photography)

To top it off, Plate 38 burgers are cushioned between soft flavorful buns from Bread Los Angeles, an artisan bakery that adds butter to their bun recipe.

But even if you miss out on Cheeseburger Week, it’s worth a journey to the edge of Pasadena to try something new from Plate 38’s ever-changing chalkboard specials.

Plate 38 - Pasadena (Leslie Rodriguez Photography)
Plate 38 – Pasadena (Leslie Rodriguez Photography)
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Cookie Good Holidays Make You Feel Like A Kid Again

Cookie Good - Foodzooka Splat Feature

You know you’re in holiday spirits when familiar flavors stir fond flashbacks of being a kid. That’s why Santa Monica bakery Cookie Good aims to recreate something yummy from your Christmases past.

This bakery initially captured attention when it opened its doors in 2014 with a series of breakfast cereal-themed cookies. The young at heart couldn’t get enough of Cap’n Crunch, Apple Jacks, and Lucky Charms. And then came the glowing orange Cheetos cookie, and the rest is Instagram history.

Cookie Good - Candy Cane, Cap’n Crunch’s Christmas Crunch, Hot Chocolate (Foodzooka)
Cookie Good – Candy Cane, Cap’n Crunch’s Christmas Crunch, Hot Chocolate (Foodzooka)

Ruffles potato chips, Nilla Wafers, Snickers, the list goes on and on. It’s no accident that many of the dozens of flavors on Cookie Good’s menu read like a greatest hits of iconic American snacks. The company does brisk business with adults who connect with owner Ross Canter’s nose for nostalgia.

“I’m in my 50s, but I have the palate of a six year old,” Canter jokes.

Cookie Good (courtesy) - Assorted cookies
Cookie Good (courtesy) – Assorted cookies

This year’s holiday lineup includes a classic Christmas cereal: Cap’n Crunch’s Christmas Crunch. Canter has also recreated another of his childhood favorites in a Yule Log cookie with Oreo crumbs forming the outer layer of “bark.”

From candy canes to marshmallowed hot chocolate, Cookie Good’s holiday lineup is packed with nostalgia. The Danish Sugar Cookie, a new flavor this year, is a tribute to those blue tins that often get passed around during the holidays.

“The ones filled with tiny sugar cookies in pretzel shapes, little rectangles, round ones with ridges,” Canter remembers. “My favorite was always the little circles topped with sparkling sugar crystals.”

Cookie Good - Holiday lineup (Foodzooka)
Cookie Good – Holiday lineup (Foodzooka)

As a former screenwriter, Canter says he sometimes goes to Starbucks to sit with his laptop and compose cookie recipes like a scene in a film.

“I’m tasting it in my head,” said Canter of the process. He’s been known to go to great lengths to develop ideas. To master the true essence of a babka, Canter crisscrossed bakeries throughout New York sampling the most popular ones.

“The trick was to get the layers right,” he said. The result is a cookie with a slightly malty base with layers of cinnamon and chocolate, plus a sweet, buttery streusel topping.

Cookie Good (courtesy) - Babka cookies
Cookie Good (courtesy) – Babka cookies

But with any cookie, ya gotta have milk, right? Cookie Good prepares their own varieties of milk by dunking cookies in plain milk and filtering out the crumbs. Ask for samples of holiday milk flavors including Oreo Candy Cane and Gingerbread Latte.

Cookie Good - Flavored milk (Foodzooka)
Cookie Good – Flavored milk (Foodzooka)

You can pick up Cookie Good’s holiday cookies and milk in time for Santa, and they’ll continue to be available through Dec. 30. In addition to cookies, you’ll find a selection of brownies, pretzel bars, blondies, and flavored popcorn. Though the deadline for holiday shipping has passed, you can still order online for local delivery or pickup at the Santa Monica shop.

Cookie Good - Holiday gift packs (Foodzooka)
Cookie Good – Holiday gift packs (Foodzooka)

For more information and store hours, click the Foodzooka profile below to find the Cookie Good website and follow them on social media.